Wagah Border Parade - Timings, Transport and Tips

The Wagah border parade on the border of India and Pakistan is possibly one of the most bizarre tourist attractions I have ever seen, up there with the abandoned pyramid in Tirana, Albania but a little more interactive. When we arrived in Amritsar we knew we wanted to see the Wagah Border ceremony but couldn’t find any good information about getting there or the timings.

Read on to find out about our experiences and get all the practical info you need for seeing the Wagah Border parade.

Arriving at the Wagah Border

From the moment we arrived to swarms of touts selling Indian flags and hats proclaiming ‘I love India’ we knew this was going to be a spectacle. Waving a ‘no thank you’ to the hoards of rickshaw cycles lining the road, we began the 1km walk in the desert-like heat.

Just as the lines began to form we were ushered to the VIP line and a gloriously free pathway all the way to our designated tourist section of seating. After all the grossly inflated tourist prices in India, it felt great to get a bit of special treatment and not arrive at an attraction feeling ripped off.

crowds at the wagah border ceremony, Amritsar, India. Wagah border parade!

Seating at the Wagah Border Parade

Being the on-to-it travellers that we are we had arrived an hour and a half early to get a seat but the foreigners’ section makes this completely unnecessary. Although the area was full by the start of the ceremony we could have rocked up 10 minutes before the Wagah border ceremony and still found a spot between the families waving flags and groups of teenagers taking selfies of anything and everything.

Crowds of around 10,000 gathered around us in the stadium seating on the Indian side of the Wagah border. To our right, our first views of Pakistan consisted of a more subdued crowd, some official-looking people and a couple of tour groups. At around 4 pm the real action kicked off and we prepared ourselves for the world’s most obscure border closing ceremony.

Views of the crowds at the Wagah border ceremony, amritsar. Wagah border parade at the Indian - Pakistan border.

Wagah Border Parade and Closing Ceremony

As the Bollywood music began blaring from all angles, crowds of people queued up to run a small circle carrying the Indian flag. This was followed by a dance party in the middle of the road which spilt over into the stands of people watching.

Meanwhile, on the Pakistani side, a teenage boy dressed in the colours of the flag performed some awkward hip-hop type moves in an attempt to encourage the crowds. He was then supported by a one-legged man who carried a flag and spun around in circles.  All this while armed gunman stood watching on with either side of the Wagah border. We sat there in our tourist stands completely bemused at what exactly we had come to see.

After all this build-up the actual Wagah border ceremony was slightly underwhelming, but only slightly. The decoratively turbaned guards on either side performed their comical marches ending in over the top ‘challenge’ poses.

The two groups simultaneously lowered their flags and the gates were closed for the night. We joined the mass exodus from the stadium and headed back to Amritsar, not entirely sure what to make of the Wagah border closing ceremony.

Pakistani guard at the wagah border ceremony, the wagah border closing parade is a must-see in Amritsar. Wagah border parade.

The Wagah Border Parade is a completely bizarre but really interesting experience if you’re in Amritsar. We highly recommend visiting the Partition Museum before witnessing the Wagah border ceremony as it gives a brilliant insight in the separation of India and Pakistan and even explains a bit about the border closing ceremony.

Here’s everything you need to know for seeing the Wagah border ceremony.

How to Get to Wagah Border Parade from Amritsar

Indian border guards on parade at the wagah border ceremony, amritsar, india. Wagah border parade

Amritsar to Wagah Border by Bus

There are several ways to get to the Wagah border ceremony from Amritsar. The cheapest is by shared minibus which costs 100 INR (€1.30) per person return. You can buy tickets from the many touts on the main street to the Golden Temple. They will issue you a ticket and give you the meeting time and place. All the minivans cost the same and run the same route.

The hop-on-hop-off tourist bus also stops at the Wagah border. A normal ticket costs 250 INR (€3.20) and the bus leaves at 2.30 pm. You can also use this bus to see lots of the tourist sites around Amritsar during the day.

Amritsar to Wagah Border by Taxi

We chose to take a private taxi to the Wagah Border ceremony because it was very affordable and this was the most convenient and flexible option. Our taxi driver which waited for us there and brought us back. We paid 1200 INR (€15) altogether split between 4 people. We arranged our taxi through our hostel - Backpacker's Nest but most accommodation should be able to arrange this for you.

Note that vehicles can’t drive all the way to the border and there is still about 20 minutes of walking from the carpark to the stands.

Wagah border ceremony tickets

As a foreign tourist, you don’t need a ticket to visit the Wagah border ceremony. Besides getting there it is free to watch. Indian visitors can freely sit in the open seating but need an invitation for the VIP area.

As white Westerners we were never asked for our passports but if you are Asian looking they may ask for a passport to gain access to the foreign seating section.

crowds on the pakistan side of the wagah border watching the Wagah border parade closing ceremony.

Wagah Border Parade Timings

We were told to arrive early to ensure we got seats, this may be the case in the general seating area which got very full. But in the VIP area, there was plenty of space right up until the build-up began and even after space could always be found. We left Amritsar at 2 pm and arrived at the stand around 3 pm.

The music and dancing began just after 4 pm and the official ceremony began a 5.15 pm. The timing changes depending on the season and begins one hour earlier (at 4.15 pm) in the winter. The whole ceremony lasted around 30 minutes.

wagah border gates open at the Wagah border parade closing ceremony.

What to bring to the Wagah border parade

It was very hot when we were there and most of the stands aren’t covered. Make sure you bring water and sun protection. You’ll want to take a camera too. There are people selling snacks and drinks in the stands but you can also bring your own food.

What can’t you bring to the Wagah border ceremony

You can’t take bags to the Wagah border closing ceremony so make sure you leave them at home or in the taxi. There are also lockers available for 50 INR. You also can’t bring cigarettes, lighters or anything that might be used as a weapon. It is safest and easiest just to stick with just water and a camera. There is no cellphone signal to the Wagah Border.

Where to stay in Amritsar

We had a comfortable stay at Backpacker’s Nest and they helped us book our transport to and from the Wagah Border Ceremony. They have large private rooms as well as dorms. Book here

For a more up-market option if you’re not a backpacker try the Ramada Amritsar which has decently priced rooms and a beautiful rooftop terrace with a pool. Book here

 If you are in Amritsar visiting the Golden Temple then a trip to the Wagah Border is a must-see. A bizarre and interesting attraction that's totally different from anything else you'll see in India!  

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