Hiking Mestia to Ushguli
The Mestia to Ushguli trek is a multi day hike through the Caucasian mountains in the north of Georgia. Still being fairly undiscovered, this is an amazing experience and one of the most stunning multi day hikes we’ve ever done.
The Svaneti region in the north of Georgia near the Russian border is set along a spectacular mountain range. Because of its remoteness the region has kept its beauty and preserved a unique mountain culture which can be seen in the day to day lives as well as the centuries old houses that dot the mountain sides.
Need to Know About the Mestia to Ushguli Trek
Distance: 45km
Maximum altitude: 2737m
Time: 4 days (plus time spent in Ushguli)
Difficulty: Medium (moderate level of fitness required)
Water: Streams are available but we would recommend taking a water purifier because of farming in the area. There is water available in the villages.
Accommodation: There are guesthouses available in the villages along the track. Booking in advance is recommended in high season and many of them are now available on booking.com. Camping is free and easy but you will need to bring supplies as there are no shops along way. Most guesthouses will let you buy meals if you ask.
Do you need a guide for the Mestia to Ushguli hike?
No, we did it without a guide. There are companies that offer guides but this isn’t necessary and the trail is mostly easy to follow. We recommend downloading Maps.me which has offline maps of the area and hiking trails.
When is the best time to hike from Mestia to Ushguli?
June-October is the official season as the rest of the year becomes cold and snowy making the trail unsafe. July and August are the busiest months as they are the warmest. The shoulder months of June and September can offer pleasant weather and fewer people.
Internet and Wifi
There is good cellphone signal along the Mestia to Ushguli trek so if you have a Georgian SIM card you should have no trouble connecting in most of the villages. There is also WiFi in many of the guest houses along the way but don’t rely on it.
How to get to Mestia
Mestia has to be your starting point for the hike to Ushguli, from here you can organise your trip and return transport from Ushguli after the hike. You can also choose to take transport straight to Ushguli and hike back.
There are a few options for how to get to Mestia. Vanilla Sky even offers flights to Mestia from Tbilisi. But the cheapest and easiest option is either by direct marshrutka (mini van) which takes 8 hours or by overnight train to Zugdidi followed by a marshtrutka. You can read all the details about transport from Tbilisi to Mestia here.
There are also marshrutka connections from most other major cities including Batumi and Kutaisi but you may have to change vehicle in Zugdidi.
Things to do in Mestia
The Svaneti Museum
This museum is a large collection of artefacts and culture history of the region. There is also some temporary exhibits, one of which was a really interesting photography exhibition while we were there.
For some amazing views of the town and surrounding mountains head around to the left of the building and climb the stairs to the roof where there is a rooftop garden space.
The Mestia ski-lift
Keep walking past the museum and you will get to the bottom station where a ski-lift will take you to the top of one of the mountain ridges. You can take an easy walk along the top of the ridge to a view point. There is also a café and restaurant at the top. A return trip on the Mestia ski-lift costs 10 GEL during the summer.
Svaneti Towers
Some of these towers are still stable and families invite visitors to climb to the top for some stunning views. Just ask around in the town and you’ll be pointed in the right direction, or you can ask at the tourism office. They usually charge a small fee for entrance.
Where to stay in Mestia
Just about every second house in Mestia is a guesthouse these days and you will find plenty of options in varying prices ranges and standards.
We opted for a nice midrange option slightly out of the town centre. Clean double rooms with private bathrooms, a large balcony area for hanging out and a delicious breakfast. Our hosts even stored our stuff for free while we were hiking. Check out more info here: Guest House Khergiani
When we arrived back in Mestia, Guest House Khergiani was booked out so they recommended a place across the road which was just as nice, set in a beautiful garden and with delicious food. The rooms here were larger and lighter too. You can check out pictures and prices of LuSvan Guest House here.
If you want something more central, we heard good things about Bapsha Guesthouse.
Budget for the Mestia to Ushguli Trek
Prices were pretty set when we were there as it was peak season and there was no shortage of trekkers to fill the rooms. In the shoulder season you maybe able to negotiate or find a cheaper offer.
There are no ATMs along the way so you need to take cash with you. It is best to take a little extra just in case. There are often optional extras at the guesthouses such as alcohol and any additional transport.
Marshrutka Zugdidi to Mestia: 20 GEL
Accommodation: 50 GEL per person per night (includes dinner and breakfast).
Horse over the river (day 3): 20 GEL
Marshrutka Ushguli to Mestia: 25 GEL
Mestia to Ushguli Hike in 3 (or 4) Days
Day 1 Mestia to Zhabeshi
Distance: 16km
On your first day, you’ll start after a generous Georgian breakfast with the first 16km of the hike to Zhabeshi. This is a beautiful little township on the banks of the Mulkhura river. We highly recommend staying at the Guest House Gogia with comfy rooms and amazing dinner and breakfast. They seem to no longer be available to book online though so if you want to book in advance try Guesthouse Tanano which comes highly recommended.
Day 2 Zhabeshi to Adishi
Distance: 10km
After a hearty breakfast you’ll start your second day from Zhabeshi to Adishi. These 10km will take you steadily upwards along a narrow track until you come out at a large gravely slope which is used for skiing in the winter.
At the top is small snack bar/cafe and some amazing views. A little further along the track brings you along the ridge to views down over the very traditional town of Adishi.
We stayed at Gunter’s Guesthouse which was fine but not amazing. We heard good things about Elizabeth’s Guesthouse.
Day 3 Adishi to Iprali
Distance: 17km
Start this day early as one of the first hurdles is a turbulent river crossing. If you are there early enough the river may be shallow enough to cross on foot but be very cautious. Make sure you do it with at least one other person and find a shallow place to cross as the current is very strong.
When we were there several people attempted to cross and found it very difficult, one losing his boots from his bag and another taking about an hour to find a safe spot. So the only other option available to us was some local lads and their horse business. At 20GEL for a barely 30-second ride across the river this is one of the most overpriced but necessary horse rides you’ll ever take.
Once over the river there’s a steep climb to a glacier lookout point and even further to the top of the hill with stunning panoramic views of the mountains. The top is popular lunch spot and a great place to rest and take in the views before a steady downwards walk followed by a valley leading to the town of Iprali.
Day 4 Iprali to Ushguli
Distance: 12km
We arrived in Iprali on day 3 of the Mestia to Ushguli hike and decided we had seen the best parts of the hike and to take a taxi further to Ushguli, allowing us an extra day to explore. We paid 80GEL for a taxi for 4 people by talking to the only people in the village. But we have heard that if you head down to the main road you can get a ride for as little as 5GEL per person.
There are two walking routes from Iprali to Ushguli, the first being partly along the main road to Ushguli and not very interesting. The other takes you up through the mountains and is much more scenic. The route is less well-trodden so make sure you mark it on a map first. Head to Davberi village and from there the way to Ushguli is signposted.
Where to stay in Ushguli
We stayed at Caucasus Guesthouse which had clean and comfortable rooms and good showers (very important after a trek). It’s located right in the middle of the village and the price (50 GEL per person) included an amazing dinner and breakfast, although you could pay just 20 GEL for the night.
We stayed 2 nights so that we had a day to enjoy Ushguli and our friends could do the day hike to the Shkara Glacier to make up for Day 4 of the hike.
Things to do in Ushguli
Movie Night
A movie theatre might not be what you’re expecting in a tiny town in the Georgian mountains and it’s perhaps a bit of a grand name for the small loft with benches and a projector screen. But each night there is a screening of the movie Dede, which was filmed in the area. It also features locals who hang around after to answer questions.
Tickets cost 10GEL at the door or in advance from the cafe/restaurant downstairs. It’s not a Hollywood blockbuster by any means but is an interesting insight into life in the Svaneti region.
Hike to Shkara Glacier
If you’re not totally over hiking there is a great day hike to a nearby glacier. It’s an easy 16km round trip which is mostly flat. The walk takes you along the valley leading to some stunning views of the glacier and surrounding mountains range.
Relax
After several days hiking relaxing might be the perfect activity. Ushguli is a gorgeous little town and while there is not a lot to do you can spend time wandering around the traditional houses and reading a book at one of the little cafes or restaurants set up in the gardens of villagers. It’s a very peaceful and beautiful place to spend a day recovering from your hike from Mestia to Ushguli.
All the information you need for the Mestia to Ushguli Trek in the stunning mountains of Svaneti, Georgia. Includes places to stay, what to pack and details about the route for hiking from Mestia to Ushguli in 3 or 4 days. #georgia #mestia #ushguli #svaneti #hiking #trek #caucasus #mountain
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